In Northern California's verdant hills, hot springs transcend natural marvels to become sacred sanctuaries. These geothermal oases draw weary souls seeking refuge from the relentless pace of modern life.
When you arrive, the ritual begins. You cleanse yourself, washing away the grime and stress of the outside world. Immersed in the springs, you soak until your skin flushes with warmth, and you feel a deep sense of renewal.
In these moments, the hot springs reveal their true essence—sacred, serene, healing, or heart-shaped. Their allure is universal, transcending boundaries to become sanctuaries of peace and healing.
Photo Credit: Bonny Clea
Esalen Institute: The Land of Three Waters
Perched on the dramatic cliffs of Big Sur, Esalen Institute is a holistic retreat where ocean waves, Hot Springs Creek, and geothermal springs converge. The salty tang of the Pacific Ocean mingles with the earthy scent of redwoods as you descend the cliffside to the hot springs. These sacred waters, revered by Indigenous tribes for over 6,000 years, offer profound healing and transformation.
As you soak in the ocean-facing pools, the sound of waves crashing against the cliffs provides a sublime backdrop for introspection and renewal. The baths at Esalen are legendary, their stories spanning over six decades. Hunter S. Thompson’s escapades are dramatic and mostly true, Andy Warhol had his 15 minutes of fame here, and the iconic photos of Steve McQueen and Neile Adams in the tub with wine and cigarettes are etched in history. Robin Williams once delivered an impromptu stand-up performance under the stars, in his birthday suit.
Here, enveloped by the timeless embrace of sacred waters, you find yourself transformed, blending your energies with the natural world around you.
Orr Hot Springs: A Sanctuary of Serenity
Nestled in a narrow canyon along a twisty road, Orr Hot Springs offers a haven of tranquility and history. The air is thick with the scent of pine and damp earth as you arrive at this secluded retreat, where steaming hot waters have provided solace for centuries.
Indigenous tribes revered these springs as sacred, neutral grounds for healing. Today, Orr Hot Springs is one of the oldest businesses in Mendocino County, operating under the same name for over 150 years.
As you step into the springs, the heat melts away the stress of the outside world. The mineral-rich waters, a soothing mix of sulfur and iron, ease your muscles and rejuvenate your spirit. Despite fires over the years, the resort has been rebuilt, evolving from stately buildings to intimate cabins. In the 1970s, a hippie collective preserved its history while fostering a community spirit.
Wander through the tall trees of Montgomery Woods State Reserve, just a short walk from the resort, and feel nature's timeless embrace. The mineral waters invite you to soak away your worries and immerse yourself in serenity.
Wilbur Hot Springs: A Haven of Harmony
As you approach Wilbur Hot Springs, hidden away 2 1/2 hours north of San Francisco, the winding, bumpy dirt road off Highway 20 guides you through tree-dotted hills, heralding your arrival with the pungent scent of sulfur. The entire resort operates off the grid, powered by solar energy. Non-toxic cleaning supplies maintain its purity, and the untouched natural landscape reflects a deep commitment to environmental stewardship.
Stepping beyond an inviting wooden fence, you uncover the heart of Wilbur. Here, three open-air flumes channel ancient, ever-flowing geothermal waters, sheltered by a Japanese onsen-style “Fluminarium.” The air is sharp with the scent of mineral-laden waters, rich in sulfur, lithium, and magnesium.
The natural hot waters are complemented by a spring-fed swimming pool, an outdoor hot mineral flume, and a dry sauna. The rustic lodge, with its communal kitchen and cozy dining areas, invites you to reflect quietly and connect with others.
Here, the only sounds you’ll hear are nature’s whispers and the gentle murmur of fellow seekers.
Harbin Hot Springs: Rising from the Ashes
Nestled in its own canyon on Boggs Mountain, Harbin Hot Springs is a haven of freedom and self-expression. For over a century, its geothermal springs have drawn a diverse array of visitors—from health-conscious Victorians to a spectrum of hippies, artists, and spiritual seekers.
Harbin offers seven distinct springs: a hot sulfur spring, a hot iron spring, four cold soda springs, and a warm arsenic spring that puddles into a rock-carved foot bath. These springs provide a unique, therapeutic experience, allowing you to choose your own path to relaxation and healing.
Despite the devastating wildfires of 2015, which reduced much of it to ashes, Harbin has been reborn, rising like a phoenix. Its geothermal springs remain the heart of this revival.
Ekin Balcıoğlu
Ekin is a Turkish-American visual artist and editor, and the co-founder and editor-in-chief of Hamam: The Magazine of Letting Go, a print magazine dedicated to the art and culture of bathing. She divides her time between Taos, New Mexico, and Izmir, Turkey.
